A hidden culture : Lan Na court textiles and dress in the 19th century
The inland states of Lan Na were part of an extended cultural area that included western Laos, the eastern Shan states and southwest China. The culture of these inland states was distinctive from coastal Southeast Asia, but was as rich and as complex. The major outside influence was Sinhalese Theravada Buddhism originating from Sri Lanka, which assimilated, or in some cases was grafted onto, ancient indigenous spirit religion beliefs. The textiles and dress of Lan Na developed from the integration of local cultures and societies in the hills and valleys, and from inland trade. A relatively egalitarian ideology permitted the flowering of indigenous skills and innovations, especially among women. This thesis examines, through the medium of 19th century court dress and textiles, how Lan Na society was affected by the threat of British and French colonial expansionism, handled with great skill and diplomacy by the King of Siam. Changes in Lan Na court dress can be viewed as a metaphor for the political maneuvers of the Siamese to remain independent of colonial rule, a unique achievement in Southeast Asia. The Lan Na princes were issued with Euro-Siamese uniforms that displayed their total allegiance to Siam. Meanwhile
Conway, S. M.
King of Siam; Southeast Asia; Colonial expansion
A hidden culture : Lan Na court textiles and dress in the 19th century. The inland states of Lan Na were part of an extended cultural area that included western Laos, the eastern Shan states and southwest China. The culture of these inland states was distinctive from coastal Southeast Asia, but was as rich and as complex. The major outside influence was Sinhalese Theravada Buddhism originating from Sri Lanka, which assimilated, or in some cases was grafted onto, ancient indigenous spirit religion beliefs. The textiles and dress of Lan Na developed from the integration of local cultures and societies in the hills and valleys, and from inland trade. A relatively egalitarian ideology permitted the flowering of indigenous skills and innovations, especially among women. This thesis examines, through the medium of 19th century court dress and textiles, how Lan Na society was affected by the threat of British and French colonial expansionism, handled with great skill and diplomacy by the King of Siam. Changes in Lan Na court dress can be viewed as a metaphor for the political maneuvers of the Siamese to remain independent of colonial rule, a unique achievement in Southeast Asia. The Lan Na princes were issued with Euro-Siamese uniforms that displayed their total allegiance to Siam. Meanwhile
hidden culture court textile dress inland state part extend cultural area include western eastern state southwest china culture inland state distinctive coastal southeast_asia rich complex major outside influence theravada buddhism originate sri_lanka assimilate case onto ancient indigenous spirit religion belief textile dress develop integration local culture society hill valley inland trade relatively egalitarian ideology permit flower indigenous skill innovation especially among_woman examines medium court dress textile society affect threat british_french colonial handle great skill diplomacy king changes court dress view metaphor political remain independent colonial_rule unique achievement southeast_asia prince issue euro uniform display total allegiance meanwhile